By Maral Tavitian
Chrys Chrys is serious about spanakopita. The phyllo dough must be rolled thin as tissue paper, the spinach sautéed in olive oil and the feta fresh and tangy.
On a recent Friday afternoon, the diminutive 72-year-old plucked two of the superflaky spinach pies from a large metal sheet tray.
“You want the flavors to be balanced,” Chrys says.
Chrys is the owner of Papa Cristo’s, a Greek marketplace and taverna in the Pico-Union neighborhood of Los Angeles. Situated on the corner of Normandie Avenue and Pico Boulevard, the restaurant stands out amid the panaderías and taco carts that dominate this predominantly Latino community.
Although many local residents may be unfamiliar with the flavors of traditional Greek cuisine, the restaurant’s history follows a narrative common in this immigrant enclave.
Chrys’s father, Sam, immigrated to the United States from Greece in 1914. He founded the market in 1948 with the intention of bringing the authentic food and wine of his homeland to Los Angeles. Chrys Chrys took over the family business 20 years later, and in 1985, expanded the shop to include a kitchen and dining room.
In its early days, Papa Cristo’s catered primarily to Greek immigrants who lived in the area – home to the historic St. Sophia Greek Orthodox Cathedral. But as the neighborhood diversified over the years, the shop’s inventory shifted to reflect its changing clientele.
Inside the vast storefront, you’ll find rounds of Ethiopian injera and boxes of Italian panettone alongside stacks of frozen phyllo dough. There are jars of preserved sour cherries atop thick slabs of chocolate-flecked halvah – a Middle Eastern candy of ground sesame seeds.
Chrys insists quality products are key to his success. But customers also come for the man himself.
“He’s just the best around,” says longtime customer Johnny Contiannous, 54. “He’s the sweetest guy and the food is delicious.”
Chrys, a small man with a manicured white mustache and broad smile, uses a step stool to maneuver behind the deli counter. But what Chrys lacks in height he makes up for with his larger-than-life personality.
He knows customers by name, and greets them with warm hugs and questions about their families. He also ensures newcomers feel right at home.
“They kind of treat you as family,” says first-time customer Saira Bana, 28. “I’ll definitely be coming back here again.”
The design of the restaurant contributes to the cozy and communal atmosphere. Iconic images of Greece adorn the walls of the dining room, where customers sit around tables covered in blue-and-white checkered tablecloth and feast on plates of lamb gyros and grilled calamari.
Displayed among posters of the Aegean Sea and ancient Greek ruins are smaller black-and-white photographs of the Chrys family. There is a framed copy of immigration documents from when the family first landed on Ellis Island in the early 20th century. This history has shaped Chrys’s philosophy as a business owner and host.
Every Thursday night, the restaurant hosts a family-style dinner complete with live music and dancing. On a given evening, chatting in English, Armenian, Korean and Spanish blends with the vibrant melody of ukulele music.
“People from all over the world come here,” says Juan Giron, who has been making sandwiches behind the deli counter for 19 years. Giron, who immigrated to California from Mexico in 1991, says he has learned “a little bit about every culture” through working at Papa Cristo’s.
Despite the different languages spoken among his customers, Chrys emphasizes the power of good food and hospitality to unite people across cultures.
“We serve people properly with respect and good food. That’s all it takes,” Chrys says. “Respect is probably one of the most important words in any language.”